Types of Leather Finishes
Trafalgar offers a wide assortment of genuine leather accessories in a variety of finishes, with each finish carefully chosen to best fit its application. Below is a look at some of the quality finishes we carry.
Aniline Finish
Only the highest quality Full Grain Leather can receive an Aniline Finish. This is because the grain remains exposed, and must have as few blemishes as possible. As only the finest hides can be made into aniline, only around 5% of them are adequate.
The result is a leather that looks and feels much better than other finishes.
Aniline finishing involves using aniline dyes, which are water-soluble pigments. This creates an effect closer to staining, as opposed to the heavy opaque coating left by other finishes. The purpose of this is to reveal more of the natural colorings and patterns of the leather, such as fat lines and wrinkles. This is sometimes followed by a pigment-free polish or glazing. When inspected under a magnifying lens, pores should be clearly visible.
There are many benefits to Aniline Leather. The lack of finish allows the leather to breathe and adjust to body temperature quickly. This makes it great for clothing, shoes, and small accessories. It also ages incredibly well, developing a much sought-after patina that comes with wear.
This type of high-quality leather requires proper care, as it may fade in direct sunlight or be susceptible to staining and soiling. To reduce this, micro pigments may be applied to offer some protection. This is referred to as “protected aniline” or “aniline plus.”
If you’re gentle with your accessories, seeking the look of a beautiful patina, and don’t mind the required maintenance, Aniline Leather can be a great option for you. As one of the softest, most pliable finishes, it is well suited for most applications, but is best for smaller accessories that are easier to maintain, such as belts, shoes, and wallets.
Semi-Aniline Finish
Semi-Aniline leather leaves the grain exposed, but has a thin protective/corrective layer.
Between variations in grain and color, scratches, insect bites, and other wear and tear, it is very common for hides to have at least a few unsightly blemishes. To rectify this, a light coat of finish can be applied with enough opacity to mask variations, without hiding the natural grain of the leather.
Semi-Aniline finishes are applied to full grain leathers, with only a small amount of pigment being used. The pigment provides a degree of durability and stain resistance that can take more wear than true aniline leather.
This finish can result in a slight sheen, but still retains the high-quality look. Unlike aniline leather, it is resistant to sunlight and water damage.
Semi Aniline leather is a good fit for those who want high quality leather without the frequent maintenance. Like Aniline leather, it is suitable for most applications, including larger items like handbags and upholstery. It may not patina, but it is still soft and will hold up nicely to gentle use.
Pigmented Full Grain Leather
While this type of leather finish requires a heavier layer of material to mask details than semi-aniline finishes, it is still made of high-quality Full Grain leather. A resin-based pigment is applied to hide defects, but it still maintains the look and feel of a quality product.
Unlike the aforementioned finishes, this finish does not leave the pores visible, and hides the natural color variations in the leather. Instead, the color and surface are uniform and evenly coated with pigment, giving it great light fastness and stain resistance. It does have reduced breathability, which is at times compensated with perforation.
This is one of the most common high-quality leather finishes. It’s also suitable for most people, needing little maintenance, and being more durable that non-pigmented leathers. It is not as soft as aniline and semi-aniline leathers, but its stiffness and thicker top coat allow it to hold up to rougher use without as much upkeep. Pigmented Full Grain leather is great for most applications, especially those that experience frequent wear. This finish is ideal for “everyday” accessories.
Suede
A process of abrasive action, called buffing, raises the corium fibers to produce an even and short fiber, or “nap” finish. The raised nap is finished by buffing the flesh side, or inner layer, of the hide.
Suede can be made from the flesh side of grain split leather or any side of a flesh split. Suedes are attractive and tough, with springy fibers that rebound quickly to the upright position. This means that there is no “finger mark” or “two-way rubs” that appear.
Suede is highly durable, yet maintains an appealing look and softness to the touch. It’s great for shoes, jackets, and gloves. At Trafalgar, you can find it lining handcrafted Italian leather belts, for a luxurious and comfortable feel.